Fes
Fes is Morocco's cultural and spiritual heart — a maze of over 9,000 alleys inside Fes el-Bali, the world's largest car-free urban area. Two to three days is enough to see the tanneries, the medersas, and Al-Qarawiyyin (founded in 859 CE, among the oldest universities on Earth). Unlike Marrakech, hiring a licensed local guide for at least the first half-day here is genuinely worth it — the medina has no logical grid, and a guide pays for itself in time saved.
If Marrakech is Morocco's showpiece, Fes is its engine room — the country's old capital, its craft and religious center, and the place where a walk through the medina feels less like sightseeing and more like time travel.
How many days in Fes?
Two full days covers the highlights; three lets you add a slower pace and maybe a day trip. Fes rewards a guide more than any other Moroccan city — its medina, Fes el-Bali, has an estimated 9,000+ alleys with essentially no logical layout, and getting lost here is a lot less charming than in Marrakech's smaller souk.
What's actually worth seeing
- Chouara Tannery — the famous leather tannery with rows of stone dye-pits, viewable from surrounding leather-shop terraces (they'll hand you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose — take it, the smell is real).
- Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University — founded in 859 CE and recognized by UNESCO and Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world; non-Muslims can view the stunning courtyard from the doorway but can't enter the prayer hall.
- Bou Inania Medersa — a 14th-century Islamic school with some of the most intricate zellige tilework and carved cedar in the country, and one of the few religious buildings in the medina that non-Muslims can fully enter.
- The blue gate (Bab Boujloud) — the grand, tiled entrance to Fes el-Bali, and a good orientation point before diving into the alleys.
Hire a licensed guide (ask your riad to arrange one) for your first morning in Fes. It costs roughly $25-40 for a half-day and will save you hours of backtracking — the medina has no straight lines, phone GPS struggles between the tall walls, and a guide also gets you past the (very persistent) 'fake guides' working the entrances.
The tanneries — what to actually expect
The rooftop terraces overlooking the dye pits are genuinely photogenic, but know before you go: most terraces belong to leather shops, and you'll be walked through their showroom on the way up (and expected to at least look at the merchandise, if not buy). It's not a scam exactly — it's just the deal. A poof or leather bag here does make a solid, unique souvenir if you were going to buy one anyway.
A day trip worth taking: Ifrane and the Middle Atlas
About 1-1.5 hours from Fes, Ifrane is a small, alpine-style town in the Middle Atlas known for its cedar forests, cooler air, and resident troop of Barbary macaques (Morocco's native monkeys) — a genuinely different landscape from the desert-adjacent south, and an easy half-day or full-day trip if you have a spare day in Fes.
Getting there and around
| From | Method | Time / Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Marrakech | Train (via Casablanca) or bus | Roughly 7-8h by train ($22-35), 9-10h by CTM/Supratours bus; a 1h domestic flight is the fast option |
| Casablanca | Train | Roughly 4h, from $15-25 |
| Chefchaouen | Bus (CTM/Supratours) or grand taxi | Roughly 4h |
What it costs
| Item | Approx. cost |
|---|---|
| Guesthouse/riad, per night | $25-60 |
| Half-day licensed guide | $25-40 (per group, not per person) |
| Tagine at a medina restaurant | $5-9 |
| Leather goods (bargained) | $15-60 depending on the item |
Where to stay in Fes — our picks
Riad Fes
An elegant, art-filled riad hotel inside Fes el-Bali with a spa and rooftop views over the whole medina.
Check availability on Booking.com ←Dar Seffarine
A meticulously restored 14th-century riad run by an architect-owner — small, personal, and genuinely special.
Check availability on Booking.com ←Ryad Mabrouka
A quiet, garden-courtyard riad just outside the busiest medina alleys — a good pick for a calmer stay.
Check availability on Booking.com ←Fes Hostel
A simple, central hostel useful as a base for exploring Fes el-Bali on foot.
Check availability on Booking.com ←Links go to Booking.com. We may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.