Hangzhou
Hangzhou is built around West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed lake ringed by pagodas, causeways, and gardens — free to walk around, with rowboat rides from roughly $17-25/hour. It's an easy 45-minute high-speed train from Shanghai (from about $10 in second class), doable as a day trip but genuinely better as a 1-2 night stop, with time left over for Lingyin Temple and the Longjing tea hills just outside the city.
Hangzhou is the trip Shanghai residents actually take on a free weekend, and once you're standing on West Lake's Su Causeway at sunset, it's obvious why — this is one of the most photographed, most quietly beloved lakes in China, name-checked in poetry for over a thousand years, and it costs nothing to walk around.
West Lake — what to actually do
The lake itself has no entry fee; you can walk the full ~15km (9.3-mile) shoreline loop, or take a shorter version along the Su or Bai causeways, both lined with willow trees and connecting several small islands. Rowboats and larger 'pleasure boats' both run onto the lake for a slower, seated view of the same scenery.
| Way to see the lake | Approx. cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Walking the causeways (free) | $0 | The classic, unhurried way — allow 2-3 hours for a proper loop |
| Rowing boat (up to 6 people, boatman included) | ¥150/hour (~$21) | A quieter, closer-to-the-water option |
| Oared 'pleasure boat' (up to 10 people) | ¥180/hour (~$25) | Larger, more common option, boatman standing |
| Three Pools Mirroring the Moon Island entry | ¥20 (~$3) | The small island on the back of the ¥1 banknote |
Impression West Lake — the evening light show
Zhang Yimou's large-scale outdoor night show, staged directly on the lake's surface with the surrounding hills as a backdrop, is still running nightly at 7:40pm (with an extra 9:10pm show around the May Day holiday). Tickets run roughly ¥360-960 (~$50-133) depending on seat category, from standard seating up to VIP boat seats. Book a few days ahead in peak season — it's one of Hangzhou's signature evening experiences, not a tourist-trap afterthought.
Beyond the lake
- Lingyin Temple — one of China's oldest and largest Buddhist temples, set against a wooded hillside carved with ancient Buddhist grottoes; genuinely atmospheric, not just another temple stop.
- The Longjing tea villages — rolling tea terraces just outside the city, source of Hangzhou's famous Longjing (Dragon Well) green tea; several villages offer tastings and walks through the actual fields.
- Hefang Street — an old commercial street for snacks, traditional medicine shops, and souvenirs, a good rainy-day fallback if the lake isn't cooperating.
Day trip or overnight?
A day trip from Shanghai works — the train is fast enough that you can genuinely see the lake's highlights and be back for dinner. But Hangzhou rewards a full overnight: sunrise and sunset on the lake are noticeably calmer than the midday crowds, and Lingyin Temple plus the tea villages easily fill a relaxed second day.
Getting there from Shanghai
| Method | Approx. time | Approx. price |
|---|---|---|
| High-speed train (Shanghai Hongqiao to Hangzhou East) | 45 minutes | ¥73 second class (~$10) |
| Metro from Hangzhou East to West Lake | ~20 minutes (Line 1) | A few dollars |
Trains between Shanghai and Hangzhou run every 15-20 minutes throughout the day, so there's rarely a need to book far ahead — same-day tickets are usually available outside major Chinese holidays.
Mistakes worth avoiding
- Trying to walk the entire lake loop at midday in summer — the heat is real; split it across morning and evening instead, or rent a bike from one of the bike-share docks.
- Skipping Lingyin Temple because it 'looks like just another temple' online — the surrounding grotto carvings and forest setting make it genuinely distinct.
- Booking Impression West Lake same-day in peak season — good seats sell out; book a few days ahead if you want it.
Where to stay in Hangzhou — hotels
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